What niacinamide is, what published studies have looked at, the concentrations those studies used, and what to ask a brand before adding a niacinamide product to your back bar or retail shelf.
Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is a water-soluble form of vitamin B3. It occurs naturally in foods such as fish, nuts, and legumes, and it is one of the most common actives in professional serums, moisturizers, and sunscreens.
It is not the same as niacin (nicotinic acid). Niacin is known for causing flushing when taken by mouth; DermNet notes that nicotinamide does not.
Most of the published work on topical niacinamide falls into four areas. The findings below describe what individual studies reported. They are not a promise of results for any product or client.
Reviews describe niacinamide as increasing the skin's production of ceramides and free fatty acids and reducing water loss through the skin. This is why it often appears in barrier-support and post-treatment formulas.
In a 2006 study, a 2% niacinamide moisturizer lowered the rate of facial oil production in a group of Japanese participants over four weeks. In a separate split-face study of Caucasian participants, it lowered surface oil levels after six weeks, but not the rate of oil production.
A 2002 study in the British Journal of Dermatology found that niacinamide does not block tyrosinase, the enzyme behind melanin production. Instead, it reduced the transfer of pigment from melanocytes to surrounding skin cells in lab models. In the same paper, a 5% niacinamide moisturizer reduced the look of hyperpigmentation compared with the base moisturizer after four weeks in 18 participants.
A 12-week split-face study of 50 women using a 5% niacinamide moisturizer reported improvements in the look of fine lines, spots, redness, sallowness, and texture compared with a control.
Most of the clinical studies above used between 2% and 5% niacinamide. Retail and professional products are often labeled at 5%, 10%, or higher. The published studies we reviewed do not show whether concentrations above 5% do more, so a higher number on a label is not by itself a reason to choose one product over another.
Topical niacinamide is generally described in the literature as well tolerated and gentler than retinoids or hydroxy acids. As with any active, some clients may react to a particular formula, especially at high concentrations or when layered with several other actives. Patch testing and introducing one new active at a time are good practice.
Niacinamide shows up most often in serums and moisturizers. Browse professional serums and professional moisturizers to compare brands by account requirements, training, and terms, then check each brand's ingredient lists directly.
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